Willowson CLICK - Basic Preparation
- All packages must be stored flat in a secure and dry area (preferably in the room where flooring is to be installed).
- Make sure that the area where the flooring is to be installed is free from moisture by heating the room(s) some days before commencing.
- The sub floor must be dry (moisture < 5%), clean and level to within +/- 2 mm over a 1 metre run.
- Dents or rises of more than 3mm must be levelled. Uneven concrete floors can be levelled with self-levelling compound. Uneven floors of wood can begrinded or planed.
- New concrete floors should be allowed to dry at least 8 weeks before installation.
- The flooring must be acclimatised to the room temperature for at least 48 hours prior to the installation.
- Check all boards for faults or damage before you begin the installation.
- Sweep or vacuum the sub-floor.
- Ensure it is clean and level before you commence.In most cases an underlay with a DPM (Damp Proof Membrane) must be used.
- For added insulation and noise reduction, an Acoustic Fibre Board Underlay with 26db, can be used as an alternative product.
- Engineered wood flooring is designed to be a floating floor and as such, must not be fixed to the sub floor by any permanent means (i.e., nailed).
- After installation, refit the skirting to the walls but never to the flooring.
- Decorative beading should be fixed to original skirting only.As this is a natural product, it will suffer contractions/expansions due to climate conditions therefore it is important to always allow expansion gaps of12 - 15 mm between the flooring panels, walls, columns, piping, stairways or any fixed element.
Tools and accessories for a correct installation: You will need a hammer, saw, wedges, pull bar and knocking block.
- Begin from a sound wall with the first board long side facing the wall In the right corner of the room (Picture 1).Check with a line of string that the row is straight (Picture 2). if the wall is not straight,mark the first row of the boards to the shape of the wail and saw the boards accordingly. The second boards of the first row is turned with the short side into the first board by fitting it in an approx. 30 degree angle into the groove of the first board and push it down. Please continue in this way with all boards of the first row. The length of the last board of the first row to the wall (Please remember expansion gap) is marked on the board with the help of a skirting square and the board (A) then sawn along this mark. Please allow this piece (and of following rows) to have a minimum length of 50 cm (Picture 3).
- Begin the next row with the piece left from the previous row ( B. Min. length 50 cm ) (Picture 3 ). Put this piece (begin on the right side) close to the first row. Tongue facing groove of first row. Push this board down until it fits and gently knock with the tapping block on the long side to close the joints.
- For the installation of the next board place a wedge of 2.5-3 cm thickness under the short side of the previous installed board, (Picture 4). Lift the new board with the short side now in the groove on the short side of the previous board and lay the board flat so that the tongue and groove of the long-sides are also fitting together. Use the tapping block to knock the board into the long-side (never force them) until the gap is closed while the boards are in this slightly angled position.
- Now press the board carefully down to the ground while it may be necessary to knock slightly on the long-side to close the joints. Replace the wedge- should there be a little gap on the short-side. Please continue to install the following rows in this way. Take particular note that the end joints of adjoining boards should be displaced by at least 50 cm.
- When the flooring is to be installed as a floating floor on a under floor heating subfloor (please observe the special regulations for flooring on such systems), it is recommended to use an additional application of glue. All joints of the boards should be glued with a very thin continuous line of adhesive on the upper side of the tongue (Picture 5). Use a bottle of PVAC wood adhesive with a pointed tubular applicator. Remove excess glue directly after installation of the board with a damp, clean cloth.
- Saw the door frames so that the flooring can be laid underneath (Picture 6). For through piping, holes with a diameter 20mm greater than pipe should be drilled though the boards. When the board is fitted, glue the piece in place. Cover the hole with a suitable gasket.
- At the end: measure the exact width of last panel row (Picture 7). To do this lay a panel (B) on the previous panel row (A). Then lay a second panel (C) tobe measured with the tongue to the wall and use a straightedge and saw the panel along the marking. Please do not forget the wall spacing.Fit the last panel (as before) carefully using the pull-iron if necessary. Use a sufficient number of wedges to maintain the gap (Picture 8).
- Finally take off all wedges and cover the gap between wall and floor with a skirting board. A covering strip is used to join flooring and other materials or e.g. thresholds, and to finish off, if possible fill gaps with a filler that match the shade of the parquet (Picture 9).Should it be necessary to remove a board. Please proceed as shown under Picture II
PLEASE REMEMBER!! FLOORING WILL NOT BE REPLACED BY YOUR SUPPLIER ONCE IT HAS BEEN INSTALLED